Solune Winegrowers Cinq Etoiles 2004

I went to the beautiful area known as Grass Valley this weekend. An old friend is working at leaving the city for country living, and I thought the nice weather called for a road trip. On the way up I was surprised to pass a sign to a winery just a mile or two from his place, so naturally, once I arrived at the house I disclosed my plans to go wine tasting! What else? Commune with nature? Not with new wines to taste...

Solune is a lovely small winery on what must be at least 40 acres of the Sierra foothills on Highway 174. The grow some of the fruit used in the wines and the tasting room, located in the storage and winemaking building leave any question about whether or not they do the whole process completely answered. Cases of wine, barrels aging, corking machine, and labeler, coexist nicely with the counter for tasting.

Four of us showed up simultaneously on Saturday (note that they are open only weekends without an appointment)to enjoy the wines and cool temperature afforded by the tasting room. One of the owners, Andrea Hamer, was on duty and was both congenial and knowledgeable about their wine and the winegrowing region located in Nevada and Amador counties. She had six wines to taste, all of which are of a similar style. In fact the styles, while ranging from Bordeaux to port-like, all have similar qualities which are a combination of the region the fruit is grown in, (terroir) and the winemakers personal goals and tastes.

What I have had in the past from the area is nothing like what Solune is producing. Typically the regional wines can be hit or miss. Compounding the problem for the area is the use of what I would consider poorer fruit making it's way to the big producers and being labeled "Amador County", not giving a proper reflection of the winemakers and growers that produce small quantities of hand made product, that while more expensive then the supermarket varieties, show the care and consideration of what people that love wine and their area can create.

This is not Napa, nor Sonoma. It is not central California. The Sierra Foothills have long very warm summers and cold winters. At 2500 feet where Solune is located they also get some snow and signs located along the backroads are posted for those days when chains or snow tires might be needed. It is rural and the pioneer spirit is still strong. Along side the ubiquitous fast food places are many home grown business and restaurants, and the main streets look like they did in gold rush days.

Solune's winemaker, Jacques Mercier, has decided to use grapes not normally seen in California. Tempranillo, Barbera, Muscat, Malbec, and others to produce both blended wines and single grape bottles.

Today I decided to open the 2004 Cinq Etoiles, one of two different wines I purchased on my visit ($18 at the winery). I leave the pronunciation to those that speak French... The Cinq Etoiles (five stars) is called a "Bordeaux" style (their label) blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Malbec. This combination is similar to those of Beringer and others when talking about blended wines. You could also say Meritage, but Bordeaux is so much more European.

When I think meritage I normally think lighter style of wines with good body, moderate alcohol, and perfumed nose. What Solune creates is much more highly concentrated, viscous, and carries a much more noticeable aroma then anything with the term "Bordeaux" in it that I have tasted in the past.

The Cinq Etoiles is a bold statement. To prove it they won a Silver medal at the Orange County Fair this year. (I am still trying to confirm it. Seems the fair and wine club keep this info under wraps...) It is definitely fruit forward, big, slightly tannic, and definitely drinkable now or for several years hence. At 14.1% alcohol, it is lower than many big wines today. They tend acquire greater concentrations of sugar found in the riper fruit needed to get the richness people demand these days. Including the God of all things wine Robert Parker. (Well and me too...)

All the wines from Solune reminded me of Paso Robles, and to some extent Lodi, where big flavor is had from the fruit left to ripen in high temperatures. The petite Syrah from 2004 is what has to be the extreme end of this winemaking style, coming mighty close in sweetness and flavor found in some California "ports" made most often from over-ripe Zinfandel. I'd go so far as to call it an after dinner wine. Not that this is a bad thing. It just was so far beyond what I would expect. (Yes, I know Petit Syrah is big, dark, tooth staining, normally.)

All in all a pleasant surprise on a day when tasting was not planed. If you have a chance, try Solune's wines. And especially take some time to visit the area and it's other sights. If you want to try the Solune, give them a call. They ship to all the usual states.