Saturday, August 26, 2006

Saxum - James Berry Vineyard - Bone Rock Syrah 2000

Not to be confused with Saxum Brown Winery in Sonoma, (a fine wine also) Saxum winery led by Justin Smith is in Paso Robles, California. Sometime in the late 90's Justin started making the Bone Rock using the facilities in the Garretson Wine Company, also of Paso Robles. And while Mat Garretson has shown a flair for making a whole bunch of different wines from whites to reds and back, Mr. Smith seems content to work with his beloved Syrah.

The 350 cases of the 2000 Bone Rock Syrah was produced at the Garretson Wine Company and shipped in 2002. It was $48 a bottle. The 2000 was purported to be a stunning wine and got 93 points from the Wine Spectator's James Laube. From the acre and a half of vines at 1300 feet, the Bone Rock vineyard, one of three currently in production, seems to have exactly what it takes to grow fruit that is both wonderfully rich and complex, yet smooth and elegant. This wine does not hit your palette with an oak hammer but with a smooth dreamy complexity unlike most other Syrah.

The nose is all Syrah, and swirling the glass, the wine tries to look more like oil than like grape juice fermented and bottled. But there it is. Six years after being born and bottled, Justin Smith's work is consistent with nectar. A combination of heaven and earth shown the way to Sausalito from a master's hands. This is one of the best Syrahs you can taste. If you can get it. And that's the catch, isn't it?

If you make a wine that is spectacular in all it's gentile loveliness, then you have a line to your door. And the waiting list to get some direct, I suspect, is long. I was once on the list myself....

Now it can be found in some restaurants for a fortune or marked up in better wine stores. The '03 Bone Rock is currently garnering 95 points from Robert Parker, and is for sale at Vintage Wine for $90. If it's still there.

Saxum is currently producing no more than 2800 cases consisting of six different cuvees including some Grenache, and Mourvedre being used in the blends.

So if you can get your hands on some of Justin Smith's wonderful wine, you are a mighty lucky person. I'm having mine with Moroccan seasoned flank steak. mmmmmmmmm

2 Comments:

Anonymous said...

Drank my last bottle of Saxum Broken Stones 2003 Syrah last week.

Mother's milk.

Friday, October 27, 2006 2:21:00 PM  
David said...

I too have had the Saxum Broken Stones Syrah recently, wonderful! Had it at a tasting, hard to find in shops here in Boston area.

Sunday, December 09, 2007 6:24:00 AM  

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