Thursday, April 06, 2006

Hahn Estates Meritage Red Table Wine 2003

Well, if you are paying attention, the picture is of the 2002, which is the only picture their website had, and the webpage is for the 2004. But this review is for the 2003. The 2004 will just have to wait.

I first tried this wine in it's 2002 incarnation when it was selling at Cost Plus World Market for $5.99. What a steal this was. A great value that carried over to their Syrah which was selling at Longs Drugs of all places for $3.99! Apparently, sometime back in history, the Hahn Estate lost it's vision and started producing wines no one would buy. After finding a new winemaker and committing to a better product, they needed to move the wines that left buyers skeptical. (All this is supposition based on hearsay, but who cares really.) So they priced the '02 vintage at low prices making for extreme values to secure a better reputation in the market place. The 2003 vintage was purchased at Cost Plus for $11.99, so I guess that market demand for what is perceived as better than the '02 allows for the price hike.

I also suspect that the sale of Rex Goliath wines to the mega-brand Constellation Wines in 2004 helped accelerate the momentum at Hahn Estates by allowing Hahn the time and money to better focus on core brands; Hahn Estates and Smith & Hook wines.

The Hahn Estates newsletter The Town Crower, says about the 2003 Meritage; "Raspberry, cinnamon, and a sweet subtle oak in the nose. Bright cherry fruit upfront tops a cascade of plum, blackberry, cassis, and spice layers in the mouth. Dusty tannins appear at the backend and are supported with a nice acidity to keep the wine structured and focused long into the finish. Try with a garlic-peppercrusted roast New York strip loin, juniper-crusted venison with cranberry salsa, or braised beef short ribs."

This closely matches my notes pretty closely, as I thought it's mildly tannic but slightly sweet, full bodied flavors of plums and cherries was a good complement to my cheeseburger. Ok, it wasn't "garlic-peppercrusted roast New York strip loin", but who can afford one of those these days. What with wine prices going through the roof!

The wine is composed of 50% Merlot, 42% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. (The flyer does not show the last two, but volume is so low I can safely assume they do little to the final quality of the wine other than a small amount of color from the Verdot and some smoothness from the Franc.) Use of oak toast is minimal and alcohol is 13.5% according to the label.

After being open for a time I did notice that wine became somewhat flabby and one dimensional, but this is typical for a wine in the price range so I can't really fault it.

Hahn is starting to garner some awards like gold medals for their Cabernet, so they seem to be heading in the right direction.

This wine is a good value and a nice wine for consumption with meaty foods or sauces.

Enjoy!

[Sidenote: The 2004 meritage is now $15.99 at Bevmo! Why so high? "DOUBLE GOLD MEDAL, BEST OF CLASS, 2006 SAN FRANCISCO CHRONICLE WINE COMP. A wine of majestic proportions, the elegant and flavorful '04 Hahn Estates simply outclasses all others in style and balance." {here} Croiky! It just moved into a whole 'nother category!!]

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